Baselworld 2013: The reference 5227 Patek Philippe, 2013 novelty
Simple, pure and classic watches have always been present in the Patek Philippe collections. Today, the demand for these timepieces stripped devoid of complications, wins feminine customers.
By Joel Grandjean
Editor-in-Chief
It is in the air. Just like there was in music the resurgence of deliciously outdated musical tastes found in a past directory, the stylistic trends of the moment highlight the treasures taken from the archives of watchmaking. Undoubtedly, the timelessness of those pieces transcends the news. The Geneva-based brand, used to precede or establish trends, has always been considered the benchmark of Arts sketch.
Thus it never stopped believing in those two or three needles deprived of complications, which are available today according to the techniques of manufacture and methods that promote prowess in extra-flat material or miniaturization.
Father and son, dialogue through interposed models
Already in 2012, the Reference 5123 Calatrava created surprise. Firstly because it seemed to have escaped from all the research and development programs, like an UFO landed on a field of new products particularly well thought out and planned. For the anecdote, it has appeared there by the chance of a last minute special request, made directly by a Philippe Stern who was supposed to be phasing out of business. It is said that he came directly to the creation department, armed with a piece extirpated from the showcases of the museum and with the firm intention to revive it by presenting it in Basel. A masterstroke as witnessed by the success of the piece in all markets.
In 2013, it was the turn of Thierry Stern, son of Philippe Stern, and new president of Patek Philippe, to close the celebration of the 80th anniversary of Calatrava, this iconic line which appeared in 1932. Not by giving it a youthful look, but by infusing it, respecting the identity codes of the brand and its tradition, timeless pulses able to transform it into the classic round wristwatch archetype. The Ref.5227 is born. De facto, the mythical line finds in its original form the way of a contemporary evidence, which remains the quintessence of all the brand.
"Officer" and gentleman style
And as if one had to prolong the blessed moment of discovering its interior mechanical wealth, with its transparent background - after all, a fairly recent phenomenon - this timepiece pays tribute to the models of "Officer" style by adopting a cover with fine integrated hingesadjusted by hand to one thousandth of a millimetre,remaining invisible from the outside, leaving no guessing of the presence of a dome to the uninitiated ones. An achievement in production conducted intra muros, thanks to the cases manufacturing workshops, from the first draft to the stamping,including the machining steps, through the many manual endings to the finishing and polishing. The traditional process, from solid metal, is called cold stamping.
It encompasses punches and matrices created in the manufacture as well as hydraulic presses with pressures of several tons.
The Art of cases
Behind a simply perfect case hides a condensed of aesthetics research and craftsmanship of creation. The new 5227 reference with a diameter of 39 mm is carved from solid gold. It has a slightly concave bezel with curved attachments that connect it without hesitation to the Calatrava line. Its flat 9.24mm profile contains a small “ear" almost imperceptible to the eye, allowing to open the cover, whose surface is ready for customizations and inscriptions. Transparent background, hand adjusted with patience and dexterity, conducive to the admiration of the automatic movement of the manufacture. From the middle to the ties, thin curved recesses, patiently polished by hand, strengthen its slimline character and give it dynamism and elegance. Subtleties in form of aesthetic added value.
Patek Philippe Calibre S 324 C, technical data
The two faces of Patek Philippe are jointly controlled expression of tradition and extreme development, as these sharp silicon based advances, concerning the regulating organ of the mechanical movements. The in-house self-winding mechanical movement that lives in the Calatrava reference 5227, with central seconds and date aperture, features the new Spiromax ® patented balance spring in Silinvar ®. It measures 3.3 mm in height for 27 mm in diameter. 29 jewels, a power reserve of at least 38 hours, maximum 48 hours, 28,000 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). Patek Philippe punch, yellow gold, 18K pink gold or white gold case. Dial base in cream lacquered brass, dauphine type two sides stoned needle runner in 18 carat gold, 12 hour marker index in applied gold in trapezoidal shape. Served on square scale alligator strap, hand-stitched, in three variants of brilliant hues depending on the material: black for white gold, chocolate brown yellow gold and dark brown for pink gold.
